Chapter 2:

Spanish Food is Fashionable but that Doesn’t Change How Spaniards View Food

Tourism is tremendously important to the Spanish economy and has been for close to 40 years when the World Bank developed and economic plan to kick-start the Spanish economy that was stalled under Franco.  In 1997, annual visitors to Spain began to outnumber the then population of 40 million.  In 1995, there were about 10 million visitors from both Germany and the UK, and close to 5 million from France.  Now visitors from the UK outnumber all others by a considerable margin with 16 million Britons visiting Spain in 2003 .  Spain is now the second most important country in the world after the US for vacation property purchases.

At the same time, travel writers declare that Andalusia is the new Tuscany.  The Pilgrim’s Way across the Rioja region to Compostela is now a popular walking holiday destination.  The state historical hotel chain of Paradores is a not-so-closely guarded secret.  High end Spanish food and wine tours are selling out faster than the brochures can be printed.  “Spain is the California of Europe” declared one North American current affairs magazine.

In the past, food was not much of a drawing card for many visitors to Spain.  With the exception of questionable paella and Sangria, tourists to Spain were more likely to eat food that was German or British style than local Spanish cuisine.  That is changing.



A sidebar on Spain as a popular vacation and holiday property destination

Spain has been for many years a popular destination for sun

Spain has for decades been a destination for Northerners who crave sun in the depths of winter.  Spanish tourism figures reflect this and have continued to rise from 35 million in 1995 to 52.5 million in 2003 – that’s an increase of 50% in less than 10 years.  I was surprised by what I found when I put Spain’s statistics in context with other European countries. 

- The UK has a resident population of 60 million citizens and receives about 25 million foreign visitors annually (about 42% of the its resident population).
- France has a population of 60 million residents and receives 75 million visitors (125% of its resident population). 
- Spain has a resident population of 43 million and receives 52.5 million visitors (about 122% of its resident population).

Spanish holiday properties are in huge demand
As European, and particularly British baby boomers near retirement, they are deciding to buy holiday and retirement properties in Spain rather than just visit.  As a result there is a booming market in Spanish holiday properties and European citizens are buying up Spanish vacation properties faster than they can be built.  After the US, Spain is the second most important destination in the world for holiday property purchases. By 2010, the majority of vacation properties in Spain will be purchased by foreigners.  These foreigners include people who buy the property for family vacations now, and who will eventually retire to Spain.  So popular are Spanish holiday property purchases in Germany that German banks have developed special mortgage services for their customers to buy property in Spain. 


Spanish food is making the news as the next big luxury cuisine

Spanish food and wine are in the news.  World renowned restaurants are becoming part of the Spanish landscape.  There are now many exceptional chefs promoting “cuisine d’auteur” such as that of Arzak in his self-named restaurant in San Sebastian and Adriá at Bulli north of Barcelona, as well as José Ramón Andrés in both the US and Spain.  These chefs are global leaders in the culinary arts and are known to attract huge crowds on North American book tours.  There are also many very accomplished Spanish chefs who promote the Spanish equivalent of “cuisine du marché” based on superb local in-season ingredients. Recognizing the rising trend of Spanish food, in 2005, there were several beautiful Spanish cookbooks published in the US.

Spanish cuisine and ingredients are starting to become known world wide.  Celebrity chefs from the US to China are using Spanish olive oil.  The Japanese are wild about Spanish food. The Japanese Crown Princess adopted the Spanish Pavilion for several lunches at the 2005 world fair in Japan.  Spanish Iberian and Serrano ham are making waves in the most sought after restaurants in Europe and North America and some delis are reporting that Spanish ham is selling at the same pace as the much more established Italian equivalent, prosciutto.  Spanish shrimp is being airlifted from the Mediterranean at $10 a shrimp (they are as big as your hand) directly to the most exclusive tables.  Spanish Manchego (DO) cheese is now been seen in cheese platters in Europe and North America. 

Interest in Spanish wine is expanding beyond the traditional regions

Spain is now the fourth largest exporter of wine to the US, after France, Italy and Australia.  Between 2000 and 2004, Spanish wine imports to the US increased 70% and now represent 5% of US wine imports, which is the second largest wine market in the world after France.  Producers from the Spanish Ribera del Duero cannot keep up with export demand, stating that they could sell their entire production to American wine enthusiasts.  The guru of wine enthusiasts Robert Parker has said that Spanish wine is the sleeping giant of the industry and will be the industry leader in both quality and creativity in the coming 10 years.  Where in the past Spanish wines were associated with heavy oak flavours, this is changing quickly.  There is a new generation of Spanish wine makers who have set for themselves the challenge of making good modern Spanish wine that can be appreciated in North America and sold for less than $10 a bottle.  These young makers are working with wine merchants to develop the market through creative events like The Match, a tapas and wine event that attracts thousands of enthusiasts of Spanish wine and tapas in a number of US cities.

Attempts to pinpoint what is the Mediterranean Diet are seen as a way of codifying what Spaniards already know

At the same time as Spanish food is gaining enthusiasts, the Mediterranean Diet is making health headlines.  Curiously though, ask a Spaniard what they think about The Mediterranean diet and you get a surprising mixture of irony and mistrust.  Spaniards believe that eating “some of everything”, without excess is the key to good health.  People in Spain are worried about the fact that young Spaniards are developing food tastes and habits-fast food, indiscriminate grazing and skipping meals-that are very far from the traditional Spanish diet – fast food, indiscriminate grazing, and skipping meals.  Indeed young Spaniards are gaining weight even compared to their European peers. 

When first a scientist and then a marketer (they are never far behind) starts to sing the praises of the Mediterranean diet, you see furrowed brows among the Spaniards in the crowd.  Spaniards resist a formulaic approach to eating and food. Pressed for a definition of the Mediterranean diet, most Spaniards wil say – “But it’s the food that we have eaten forever”.  (“Pero es la comida de toda la vida”). Then they will offer, “If you must define the Mediterranean diet, here is a pretty good start”:

  • eat fish at least 2 to 3 times a week and as often as possible
  • drink wine with meals, particularly red wine
  • eat beans and lentils 2 to 3 times as week
  • use olive oil to prepare food
  • eat lean cuts of meat
  • eat vegetables at every meal
  • eat fresh fruit for desert
  • eat nuts and seeds
  • avoid snacking (that is to say eating outside of socially recognized meal times; easier in Spain since there are many!)

The Mediterranean diet is making health headlines

Notwithstanding Spaniards concerns about the Mediterranean diet as an oversimplification of food in Spain, there is a steady increase in the number of studies that confirm the positive benefits from the Mediterranean diet.  Here are a couple of examples to get a sense of the findings. In Lyon, they ran a trial to track the impact that diet had on people who had had a recent heart attack.  Half the participants followed the American Heart Association’s Step-1 diet and the other half followed the Mediterranean diet – rich in fish and olive oil.  Of people who followed the Step-1 diet, 59 died.  Of the people who followed the Mediterranean diet, 14 people died.  I never knew my maternal grandfather.  He died very young of his first massive heart attack.  As a French Canadian living in rural Ontario, his diet was the antithesis of the Mediterranean diet.

Rheumatoid arthritis is an autoimmune disease that affects the whole body. There have been some small studies finding that people who suffer from Rheumatoid arthritis could reduce their anti-inflammatory medication.  There are also studies not yet at the human trial stage indicating that mice bred to develop Alzheimer’s disease have considerably less build up of the protein associated with Alzheimer’s when they are fed a diet rich in fish oil.  Another study found mice had better memory when on the Mediterranean diet rich in Omega 3 fish oil.  Go figure.  Spanish parents routinely tell their children that they will be smarter if they eat another sardine!

All this attention to Spanish and Mediterranean food has not changed the way Spaniards view food

Spain is the rising star of the food, wine and leisure world.  The Mediterranean diet is making medical headlines.  But ask Spaniards what they think about all the fanfare, and their reaction is like a mixture of pleasure at the outside approval and indignation that no one has paid attention to the wonders of Spanish food before.  “Of course Spanish food is good, because Spaniards wouldn’t allow it to be any other way”, is the subtext of the reply. 

This may be a good time to speak about the Spanish “sentido del ridiculo” as one reason why Spanish food and wine have been such well-kept secrets for such a long time.  The Spanish “sentido del ridículo” is akin to fear of losing face, but with a twist.  “El sentido del ridículo” is a fear of calling attention to oneself unless one is exceptionally well prepared, for fear of failure.  Try to speak English to a young Spaniard who has been taking English classes for many years and you see a lively person plunged into silence.  He or she might make a mistake. Perhaps there is a similar effect at play in the case of trumpeting the message about Spanish food and wine, because once they put you at the top of the heap, you constantly have to earn the right to stay there. 

In recent years, American wine critics have stated unequivocally that Spanish wines have nothing to envy French and Italian wines.  Spanish wine makers have taken these comments and run with them to push the growth of markets.  However, perhaps it would have been out of character for Spaniards to say this of their own wines.  Thankfully, we see Spaniards getting more confident about the world class qualities of their food and wine, while the non-Spaniards reiterate these facts as well.

These non-Spaniards, such as me, are affectionately known in some parts of Spain as “guiris”.  This is a term that was used by people in the Basque country to refer to the Liberal soldiers who fought the monarchists (Carlists) in the 19th century.  The “guiri” soldiers, seen as foreigners by the Basques, wore bright and colourful uniforms, not unlike tourists to Spain in the 60’s when the expression was coined.

This reminds me of one very well-known guiri, Winston Churchill, who when speaking of his favourite wine, Vega Sicilia, used to refer to the Spanish Ribera del Duero mythic wine as being Italian.  The venerable Vega Sicilia bodega politely informed the planners of a British royal wedding that they could provide only part of wine they had requested.

Regardless of what the world thinks, Spaniards take food very seriously

Imagine …

Eating food that tastes good and that is good for you every day
Living a longer and healthier life
Enjoying meals with your family and friends
Cooking food that is easy to make, affordable, good for you, AND tastes great. 
Cooking for your family using recipes that bear traditions from the Romans in second century, the Arabs and Jews throughout the Middle Ages, South America in the 16th century and sophisticated Europe of today

Imagine this, and you imagine food in Spain– not just the food of restaurants and hotels but everyday meals, in the homes of normal people like you and me.




The Spanish Civil War and the Franco Dictatorship

Like the American Civil War (1861-65) in today’s America, the Spanish
war of 1936-39 remains a highly emotional topic as people still identify
with ideas of each side. In Spain, the war initially was between a newly
elected left-leaning government and a sector of the army backed by
conservative forces. Soon it became a confrontation between Revolution and Fascism.  The Soviet Union backed the government forces and Italy and Germany backed the Fascist army rebels.

As in the American Civil War (or War Between the States as Southerners often refer to it), many people were killed in battle or died from their wounds. The American Civil War resulted in more than 500,000 deaths, most as a result of disease and the privations that occurred during the war. The Spanish Civil war resulted in 300,000 deaths, and 200,000 people left Spain to live in exile.  On the other hand, 50,000 young people from around the world joined the International Brigades to defend the government forces. 

Atrocities were committed by both sides in the Spanish Civil War.
Suffering was widespread.  More than a 200,000 Spaniards died of disease
related to lack of food during and immediately after the war. This
suffering was made worse by the harsh dictatorship which emerged after
the victory of Franco’s rebel army. There was no liberation of Spain in
1939 or after the Second World War.  Staying out of the Second World War was one of the ways in which Franco consolidated his power. The Allied forces feared Communism and as a result the Franco dictatorship was allowed to stand. The dictatorship lasted from 1939 to 1975.  Democracy was re-established in Spain only in 1977. 

All this suffering has made Spaniards deeply opposed to violence. Today’s
Spain is one of the most tolerant and pacifist societies in the world.
The spontaneous and peaceful march of over 10 million Spaniards (out of a population of 42 million people) the day after the March 11, 2004 terrorist bombs that killed 192 people in Madrid is a testament to this. 



There is a clear and broadly adhered to rationale behind what Spaniards eat and when

Here are some general principles that guide Spaniards in what they eat during the six daily eating occasions.

* Eat a salad with your meal at least once a day.  Because Spaniards sit down to eat twice a day, this is not difficult to accomplish.  Salad in Spain can vary immensely but in our house it is the simplest possible.  The best tomatoes you can buy, with lettuce, cucumber and whatever else takes your fancy, dressed with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, Balsamic vinegar and a pinch of salt.  The salad that is served in some touristy restaurants in Spain with soggy pickled carrots and beets is not typical of what Spaniards eat at home.

* Eat beans, lentils and rice at least three times a week.  If you had told me when I was finishiing the lean years in University that I would be eating beans and lentils three times a week in my forties, you could have knocked me over with a feather.  But here I am doing just that.  Sure, the beans and lentils are combined with chorizo sausage or ham, but they are first and foremost vegetable based meals that keep your heart healthy.  It’s no secret that beans or lentills are terrific for you but the Spaniards have made their preparation into a true art form and most Spaniards (including my children) will get grumpy if two weeks go by without a meal of their favourite lentils or bean stew.  See the Spanish Classicssection for Bean Stew with Spanish Paprika and Lentils with vegetables.

* Rice is a food not a side dish.  Spaniards eat meals that are primarily vegetarian several times a week.  Paella, or “arroz” as it is also referred to, is one of these.  See the Spanish Classics Easy Chicken and Shrimp Paella.  Combining the rice with olive oil, vegetables, meat or seafood ensures that rice is digested without the spike in blood sugar that can come from eating carbohydrates on their own.  Research suggests that keeping blood sugar levels steady is good for your health and particularly your heart.  In Spain, rice and pasta are rarely if ever served as a side dish with protein and especially not at the evening meal.

* Eat fish at least once a week and as often as possible.  My father-in-law Antonio fished the Mediterranean for more than 40 years. He is also retired and a great cook. My brother-in-law Manolo works at the dockside fish auction at a Mediterranean port.  That makes me one of the luckiest people on the planet.  Antonio buys the best fish available on the market and cooks it with loving care three or four times a week when the nets are out.  When the boats are not out at sea, to give the stocks a chance to rejuvenate, we eat less fish but in Spain we eat fish at least twice a week.  In keeping with how important fish is to Spaniards, there are four great fish recipes in Spanish Classics’ Spanish Fried Anchovies, Spanish Fried Calamare, Easy Basque Tuna Stew and Baked Hake with Clams


* Milk is a meal not a drink.  Spaniards (including children) don’t drink milk during a main meal. Rather, they have it for breakfast with bread, after school and before bed.  Spaniards will also eat milk products for desert after a meal.  Perhaps due to the years of privation after the civil war and during the early Franco dictatorship when chocolate was a rare treat, many Spaniards put chocolate in their milk.  This practice would appear to be extremely popular judging by the towers of six kilo instant chocolate drink containers on offer at supermarkets, and the conspicuous yellow containers of chocolate that dot the shopping carts of hip young couples. See below on Cake, Chocolate, Desert and Breakfast.

* Water and wine is what you drink with food.  There are some Spaniards who will have a softdrink with their food at mid-day or in the evening, but most Spaniards will drink water (hold the ice cubes) or wine with The Meal mid-day.  Spanish softdrink consumption is about a quarter that of the US, but it is higher than in France.  Juice is becoming more popular as a beverage but is not generally served at meals.  Like milk, juice is considered a high energy food and is served as part of breakfast in the morning or an afternoon snack.


* Fruit and milk products such as yogurt and custard are for dessert not pastries and baked goods.  It took me years to get used to the fact that most restaurants in Spain do not offer pastry desserts but rather offer a selection of the best fruit of the season.  I do not have a sweet tooth, but it is only recently after a long stay in Spain that I stopped feeling that twinge of disappointment at not being able to indulge in a carbo fix after a restaurant meal.  For fine pastry, go to France not Spain. 

But, where else in the world will a bartender, press two oranges when you order a glass of fresh orange juice in the midst of the lunchtime frenzy? Pressing fresh orange juice before the rush would save time, but that is beside the point for the café’s patrons.  Orange juice that is not freshly pressed is not the quality they expect. This juice would be part of a prix fixe three course meal that costs you less than a burger, fries and shake in New York City.  It has taken me years to convert, but now I look forward to the wonderful feeling of finishing the main meal of the day with a glass of fresh-pressed orange juice or the best fruit of the season, served at the table with a bowl of water to wash the fruit as I eat it.

* Cake, Chocolate and Dessert are for when you wake up or, if you are a child, for after school.  Yes, if you are going to eat cake, the Spaniards say, eat it for breakfast.  I would be a very wealthy person indeed if I had a dollar for every time my jaw hit the floor when in I saw a slim and uber-stylish lady pack away a tower of sweetness in a Madrid café early in the morning.  Did she breakfast on this everyday?  Absolutely not.  But when cake is in order, it is for breakfast or, in the case of ice cream ,after a week-end afternoon siesta.

*My mother still talks about a couple of elegant ladies sitting in a Barcelona café eating plates of sweetened whipped cream with cookie wafers – it was 5 or 6 p.m. on a Saturday afternoon.  Did they eat this everyday?  No, but did they ever look like they were enjoying themselves.  Hot chocolate (as thick as chocolate pudding) and churros (chewy deep fried bread – it’s better than it sounds!) is the other morning and mid-afternoon combination that falls in the “After you wake up” category.


* Even when it’s hot and you’re tired, you still have to eat the main Meal.  The last few years have brought air-conditioning into many homes in Spain but for many years a visit to my in-laws for The Meal was very warm indeed in spite of the terrazzo floors and drawn shutters.  In the midst of this heat, my mother-in-law might have prepared my husband’s favourite meat balls.  Horrors!  But eating this meal and taking a little break during the worst of the afternoon heat made it possible to get through the rest of the day without snacking.  It is also part of encouraging one’s metabolism to go through its full spectrum from feeling hungry to feeling satisfied.

Not surprisingly, apart from bread with olive oil, olives and a few almonds, there are few snacks in Spanish kitchens.  Because of the impact of heat on people´s appetite, Spanish cook pay particular attention to making food pleasing to the eye – with contrasts (white fleshed fish and peas) and warm colors (Spanish pimentón and saffron).

* Go easy on carbohydrates for the evening meal.  Protein dominates this meal most of the time in Spain.  Lean meat, fish, poultry are typically served with little fanfare – no rich sauces, no mashed potatoes, although bread is served both at lunch and dinner.  There is one exception which in our house is referred to as “la comida secreta”, the secret meal which is comprised of French fries and fried eggs, one of the favourite evening meals throughout Spain. The humble potato can be elevated to incredible heights by ordinary people with the addition of fire, olive oil, a little salt and in some cases, eggs.  Oddly, potatoes in olive oil are an exception to the rule of minimal carbohydrates in the evening.  Spaniards don’t pretend to be purists with food precepts – being relaxed is probably one of the reasons they are in such good health!

*Tapas are not substitues for a meal.  Of course, Spaniards will go out to local bars that have a reputation for good tapas.  Tapas might occasionally be combined to make up supper on a hot evening.  But this is occasionally.  Tapas are not seen by Spaniards as a substitute for a meal.  They are eaten on the way home, to “open the appetite” before The Meal.  One the rare occasions where I have chosen to eat tapas instead of a sit-down meal at lunch, I have regretted it for the rest of the day, as I found myself snacking constantly until late into the evening.  In the Spanish Classics there are four heart healthy tapas : Cold Savory Almond Soup, Serrano Ham with Fresh Figs, Spanish Tortilla and Mild Gazpacho

* Limit drinking alcohol outside of main meals to just before these meals and don’t drink without eating a little something – a tapa.  One summer day at around 5:00 in the afternoon (a full four hours before the next main meal), I asked for a beer when we stopped at a café with my brother-in-law Paco. “You lush” he chided me.  You see, it was time for a hot drink. Beer and wine were either for lunch, dinner or just before either of these meals.  This too is a habit that helps to avoid a spike in blood sugar and helps to keep your heart healthy.

* Bread contains four ingredients and no more – flour, water, yeast and salt.  And bread is eaten with the main meals of the day.  For a long time it struck me as odd that Spaniards always ate bread with food rather than on its own in a sandwich.  Ask a Spaniard to eat a meal without bread and the reaction will be one of incredulity.  Spanish bread is not high in fibre but it may be that eating the carbohydrate with meals ensures that the bread does not result in the spike in blood sugar that would result if it was eaten on its own or as part of a sandwich where the bread dominates.

Preparing and eating food as a family affair

“What are we going to make for The Meal?” So begin the day at my Spanish in-laws. “La comida” or “The Meal” is the axis around which the day revolves in the home of my retired in-laws, Antonio and Maria.  The process involves:

  • Deciding (after some heated exchanges) on what might be appropriate for the day given any combination of the likes and dislikes of who will be home for The Meal and what’s in season.
  • Going to buy the food – this involves walking between half a mile and a mile and a half, depending on what was decided.  My 74 year old father-in-law Antonio does the shopping for more than 10 pounds of food daily without the benefit of a shopping trolley – those are not for real men.
  • Making the food – complete with another series of heated debates on just how things should be done.

“Well, they’re retired” you might say, “they have time to spend thinking about food and cooking”.  Or “they’re older now”. “They’re just part of the trend of older folks taking care to eat well for health benefits, lower cholesterol and blood pressure”.  Yes and no.  The care and attention that goes into preparing meals is not seen as part of an obsession with one’s health but as something even more important.  I sense that for my in-laws, it would be undignified to eat any less well than they could possibly afford. 

Perhaps there is a link to the years of hardship and privations during Franco’s 36 years of dictatorship from 1939 to his death in 1975.  Where many people lived in very difficult conditions for decades, regardless of which side they were on during the war, they may simply have decided that if their public and work life might not be what they wished for, their home and particularly the food served to family would be everything they could make it. 

As a consequence, choosing what to prepare and deciding how to prepare it is important.  This is so much so that meal preparations (both before and after the meal) are discussed between neighbours and colleagues.  People will often greet each other in the afternoon with a question about what the other made or ate for lunch.  Because food is so important, this question is not considered an invasion of privacy.  I remember feeling quite shocked to hear my mother-in-law Maria kibitzing with neighbours about how The Meal turned out that day.  Can you imagine North American neighbours asking one another about how their supper turned out when they bumped into each other at the mall in the evening? 

This reminds me of a conversation I once had with a colleague who kept to a strict Kosher diet even when on the road.  We traveled together on a number of occasions. One day when she was foregoing yet another meal because there was nothing kosher where we ended up at meal time, I asked her: “Sarah, aren’t you hungry?” She answered smiling, “Yes, but it reminds me of who I am.”

About Spanish Classics and other recipes in this book

So finally we have come to the food.  The food is where this book started.  I considered the recipes collected for this book for quite some time before I started to write the prose.  I asked myself what these recipes revealed about the past and the present in Spain.  What they tell us about what people do or don’t value.  Spanish food is fashionable but you won’t find in this book any recipes for ethereal “auteur” dishes such as “foam” or “deconstruction”.  Spaniards don’t eat that way, nor do they aspire. I am in awe of the talented Spanish chefs who are redefining what eating means, through different sensory experiences.  However as they themselves say, that’s not what food in Spain is generally about.  When you plan a visit to Spain, book your table at the luminary-Michelin starred restaurants twelve months in advance, and revel in unique sensations. In the meantime, read on to get to know the Spanish recipes that keep body and soul together in the rush of everyday life.

This first chapter of recipes contains some of recipes I have called Spanish Classics. I selected these recipes so that the first steps in discovering Spanish food might offer new tastes and nourishment from easy-to-find healthy ingredients.  The recipes while perhaps unfamiliar are not complicated and should deliver great pleasure for the time needed to prepare them. They have also been chosen because they represent what Spaniards call “la comida de toda la vida”. The result should be pleasing to both young and old. 

These Spanish Classics include recipes for what Spaniards lovingly refer to as “spoon dishes” or “platos de cuchara”.  These dishes deliver that wonderful feeling that comes from eating food that requires none of the niceties of a knife and fork but rather the basics of a soup spoon.  These are dishes that simmer until tender and flavourful but take little time to put together.  They are served several times a week, throughout the year.

The remaining recipes in this book are organized around a major theme which forms the subject of each chapter.  Chapter 3, For Spaniards, Food is the Key to Health, focuses on the health benefits of the Mediterranean diet and on priorities when Spaniards do their grocery shopping.  It is followed by two groups of recipes.  The first is entitled Quick Fish and Seafood, reflecting the fact that fish and seafood are part of daily life in Spain.  Fish is expensive in Spain, as it is everywhere, but Spaniards still cook fish even when they are pressed for time.  The second group of recipes is entitled Simmering Fish and Seafood.  These healthful recipes contain more ingredients than the previous group and may be just what’s needed when you want to prepare wholesome food for an occasion, be it an informal Friday night get-together with your in-laws or a more formal dinner. 

Chapter 4 Thirty Centuries of Food-Loving Iberians ,looks at food through the ages on the Iberian Peninsula. It contains extracts from a 13th century Arab cookbook whose recipes are uncannily similar to those cooked in my in-laws home.  The first group of recipes following Chapter 4 is entitled Easy Slow-Cooking Meat and Poultry.  The recipes bear the hallmarks of Arab cooking- spices, fruit with meat, and cooking in olive oil.  These dishes are perfectly suited to a slow cooker and will come in handy during busy week-days.  Next is a group of recipes in called Special Occasion Meat and Poultry.  Most of these recipes are made with ingredients that can be found easily.  The dishes may require a little extra preparation and are perfect for those days when you want to lose yourself in the aromas and tastes of your kitchen.

Chapter 5 is entitled Spain: a Subcontinent, with a Wealth of Local Ingredients and Food Traditions.  This chapter describes Spain’s geography and its local food-stuffs.  Spain´s weather and geography range from snow-covered mountains to the warm Meditterrean beaches, all and its food reflects this.  To explore this variety, I have collected 30 tapas recipes to prepare and enjoy some of these wonderful Spanish ingredients.  There are also traditional recipes for those who want to dive into Spanish traditions and make their own chorizo sausage, for example.

Chapter 6 recounts the transformation that has occurred in Spain during the past 50 years. Spaniards Live Long and Healthy Lives Now but the 50’s and 60’s Were Tough Years presents both the humorous and serious sides of lean times that Spaniards lived through during the Franco dictatorship.  The recipe section that follows, Meatless Meals and Vegetables offers traditional recipes that are among Spanish favourites.  These recipes deliver wonderful flavours with humble ingredients, which it turns out, are very good for our health. 

Finally Chapter 7, Of Feasts, Sweets and Celebrations documents the many occasions for which Spaniards have specific food traditions.  Many of these are religious holidays.  The recipes for sweets range from the most traditional confections prepared by religious orders to modern recipes that combine sweet, hot and fragrant, including chocolate and bay leaf flourless cake, black pepper caramel and olive oil sorbet.


A side bar on Ingredients

A Spanish Pimentón

Spices are by the one ingredient that identifies a dish with a particular place.  Spanish Paprika, or Pimentón, is one of the spices that “make” food from Spain.  There are three basic kinds of Spanish Pimentón.
- Pimentón de la Vera for the Spanish Smoky Paprika as we have referred to it in the recipes possesses an extraordinarily distinctive flavour – it is at once deep, smoky, and sweet.  Food that is prepared with Pimentón de la Vera has many layers of rich flavour.  Stews prepared with Pimentón need not have meat added to burst with flavour.  Pimenton de la Vera is not always easy to find, but it is well worth ordering especially to include in the classic bean stew.
- Sweet Spanish Paprika which is used in a number of dishes where a lighter flavour is in order.  Sweet Pimentón is an essential ingredient in Galician Octopus and Rioja-style Cod.  In a pinch, good Hungarian paprika can be substituted for Spanish Sweet Pimentón
- Hot Spanish Paprika or Picante Pimentón is a slightly spicy version of the Sweet Pimentón. As you will see below, Spanish food is not spicy, but occasionally, Picante Pimentón is used to add a little heat to dishes such as Patatas a la Brava, or Pil-Pil Shrimp.


Spanish Ham

Of Spanish ham there is a book waiting to be written.  The Romans considered ham from the Iberian Peninsula to be one of its finest products.  There are Roman recipe books that describe the salting of Iberian ham and pork loin, and I completely understand why.  The flavor Spanish ham is quite simply unique.

There are two basic stocks of pig used to make ham in Spain.  Iberian ham is made from a particular pig that is indigenous to the Peninsula, sometimes referred to as black foot pigs.  Iberian pigs are fed a special diet of acorns and are allowed to roam under the acorn trees.

Serrano ham is made from the European white pig.  Hams made from both these types of pigs are salted and allowed to dry for several months before they are ready to be consumed. The curing occurs in cool buildings often in mountainous areas, up to 36 months in the case of Iberian ham and up to 18 months in the case of Serrano ham.  Serrano ham is more readily available in North America than the more expensive Iberian ham.

Bearing in mind the fact that Spaniards don’t eat food because it is good for them so much as because it tastes good and is part of a varied diet, a collective hurrah could be heard in Spain as a result of a controlled study on the health impacts of Spanish Ham.  Get ready for this. 

Consuming a small amount (one slice) of Spanish “Ibérico” ham daily was found to improve good HDL cholesterol levels.  The study was rigorously designed using a population of cloistered nuns whose diet was limited entirely to what was served by the convent.  A randomized group of nuns ate a small slice of Iberian ham before lunch and dinner during 16 weeks.  The nuns whose cholesterol levels were improved by the ham found rock star status as a result of their service to the cause of Spanish Iberian ham. 

In a similar vein, the Serrano ham marketing board has published the results of a recent study by a researcher at the University of Southern California on the impact of zinc on pre-adolescence.  The research concluded that providing 11 year-old children with 20 mg of zinc a day, five days a week for three months resulted in increased mental agility.  Spanish ham, it turns out, is a good source of zinc.  So perhaps the half-crazed mothers of pre-adolescent teenagers can join me in a run on the deli in the hopes of unplugging our children’s ears – “I didn’t hear you ask me to set the table Mom”.

When these same twins were five years old, we took an autumn trip to the southwest of Spain to the region of Extrema Dura, which is renowned for the production of Iberian Ham.  We drove by a field of acorn trees where pigs were quietly grazing.  Unprompted, our daughters yelled in unison pointing at the pigs “Jamon!” or “Ham”.  Today, their little sister is known to loiter in front of the ham that sits on our kitchen counter as it does in many Spanish households.  She will stand there quietly, eyes peering over the counter, focused on the ham, until a dotting uncle offers to cut some for her to enjoy. 

The Serrano Ham with Fresh Figs recipe we include in this section is the simplest and one of the most exquisite ways of serving ham.  I hope you will enjoy it.


Extra Virgin olive oil

Spaniards consume 12 kg of olive oil per person per year.  That’s about 10 times more than the French and more than 20 times more than UK citizens.  Spain is the world’s largest producer of olive oil.  It exports more olive oil to Italy than to any other market.  So you and I have been buying Spanish olive oil packaged in Italy.  The tradition of exporting olive oil from Spain to Italy harks back to the Romans.  Outside Rome there is a mountain whose core is empty amphorae bearing the seals of Spanish merchants from the 3rd century.  The Romans brought new agricultural techniques to Spain that increased the productivity of the olive oil industry way back then. 

For North Americans, extra virgin olive oil is often associated with a strong acidic flavour.  This acidity is the product of a fermentation which can occur if the olives are left to sit after they are picked and before they are taken to be pressed.  Today there is wave of change in the Spanish olive oil industry that is making extra virgin olive oil mild and more fragrant than ever before.  New tree planting techniques are enabling a much quicker harvest of the olives, which in turn makes it possible to get the olives more quickly to the press.  The quicker harvest means that they can be pressed the very day they are harvested.  Using this new technique the acidity level is less than a tenth of what it was when the olives waited two days to be pressed.  The difference in taste is remarkable.  If you found extra virgin olive oil too strong for your liking, look for some of the smaller Spanish producers who are offering very low acidity extra virgin olive oil.  The taste is like the name of one of the smaller producers, “desert gold”.


By the numbers…

4, number of Spanish restaurants with 3 Michelin Stars
10, number of Spanish restaurants with 2 Michelin Stars
91, number of Spanish restaurants with 1 Michelin Star
59, number of people who died after eating the American Heart Association’s 1-step diet in the Lyon heart study
14, number of people who died after eating the Mediterranean diet in the Lyon heart study
70% less, the difference between mice fed a diet rich in the same fats as the Mediterranean diet and “control mice”, in levels of Alzheimer-causing proteins
1997, the year Spain received as many tourists as its population
120,000, the number of vacation properties built in Spain in 2003
50,000, the number of vacation properties built in Spain in 2003 and sold to foreigners
150,000, the number of vacation properties expected to be built in Spain from 2010
50%, the proportion of vacation properties that will be bought by foreigners, principally UK citizens, in 2010
2.25, the number of kg of Serrano and Iberian ham that Spaniards eat per capita per year
Less than .01%, the percent of Spaniards who dance and sing flamenco immediately after the main meal of the day – La Comida

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